Homemade Ricotta with Herb Honey and Orange Toast

My favorite food city is, without question, New York. I love everything about the food atmosphere there. More so than any place I've ever traveled to, New Yorkers seem to really care about what they eat. Dining out is as much about the experience as it is about the food.

One dish in particular that stands out of the dozens I've tried in New York is whipped sheep's milk ricotta. At Locanda Verde, a restaurant in TriBeCa, it is served with truffle honey. And a hint of thyme. And burnt orange toast. Take it in.

Whipped sheep's milk ricotta, though? I know, that may sound a bit strange. And truffle honey and thyme and burnt orange toast? I know, it's a mouthful. But this appetizer (although, to be honest, I could eat it a whole bowl as a meal) is so insanely good. After my perfect cheesecake, this is the best thing I've ever  shared on this blog.

Despite the multiple components of the dish, it really is so simple. Cheese + bread = yum. For this reason, it's imperative that the star - the ricotta cheese - is of the best quality you can find. Using fresh ricotta is vital. Surprisingly, fresh ricotta can be somewhat difficult to track down, even in Los Angeles, where I made this with my sister. After coming up empty at Whole Foods, we headed to The Cheesestore of Silverlake. They, too, were out. We were pretty discouraged by this point (if a cheese shop didn't have it, then who else would?), but the woman working at the cheese shop started on about how easy it was to make ricotta cheese at home.

And she's right. I'd read about it countless times before. While it's not technically ricotta cheese because it doesn't use the leftover whey  from the cheese-making process like real ricotta does, it's undeniably delicious and miles ahead of anything store-bought in terms of texture and flavor. Creamy with a sweet, milky flavor, the ricotta is further enhanced with a drizzle of honey and a sprinkle of salt and pepper.

Taking inspiration from Locanda Verde, we then grilled up slices of a crusty hearth loaf and spritzed them with orange juice. Oh my. I was a bit nervous that our homemade ricotta simply wouldn't stand up to the lofty memories I had of Locanda Verde's rendition. Was I ever wrong. Even if I won't be making it back to New York soon to indulge in all its epicurean offerings, I'll rest assured that I can treat myself to this simplest of treats anytime.

Fresh Ricotta with Herb Honey and Orange Toast 
Inspired by Locanda Verde's Whipped Sheep's Milk Ricotta

If you used a lower-fat milk to make the homemade ricotta instead of whole milk, you can make the ricotta richer here by substituting half and half or heavy cream for the milk. Orange zest can be used in place of the lemon zest. To warm the honey, place it in a microwave-safe bowl and heat on medium power for 1 minute. Be careful that the honey doesn't overflow. Alternatively, heat it in a small saucepan over low heat.

Yield: 4-6 servings

About 1 cup fresh ricotta cheese, homemade (recipe below) or store-bought
3-4 tablespoons milk
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 teaspoon lemon zest
Herb Honey, warmed (recipe below)
Orange Toast (recipe below)

In a small bowl, combine ricotta and milk. The ricotta should be creamy but not too loose. Add more milk to reach the desired consistency. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Add the lemon zest and stir to combine. Drizzle the Herb Honey over the ricotta. Serve alongside warm slices of Orange Toast. 

Homemade Ricotta
Adapted from Serious Eats

Most versions of homemade ricotta utilize the stove to separate the curds in the milk from the whey. This version is far easier and far less fussy, using the microwave instead. It's important to use pasteurized milk instead of ultra-pasteurized milk. We used whole milk when we made this, but I have a feeling that using a lower-fat milk will work just as fine; the resulting ricotta won't taste exactly as rich, but you can certainly remedy this by using half and half or heavy cream instead of milk to mix with the ricotta in the first step of the recipe for Fresh Ricotta with Herb Honey and Orange Toast.

Yield: about 1 cup ricotta cheese

4 cups milk, preferably whole (see note)
1/2 teaspoon table salt
4 tablespoons lemon juice (about 1 lemon)

Begin by lining a colander with 4 layers of cheesecloth or 2 layers of paper towels and set over a large bowl. Combine 2 cups milk, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 2 tablespoons lemon juice in a microwave-safe glass 1-quart measuring cup. Microwave on high heat until lightly bubbling around the edges, anywhere from 2 to 4 minutes (ours took about 3 1/2 minutes). Remove from the microwave, and stir gently for 5 seconds. The milk should separate into solid white curds and translucent liquid whey. If not, microwave for 30 seconds longer, repeating as necessary until fully separated.

Using a slotted spoon or wire skimmer, transfer the curds to the prepared colander. Cover the exposed top with plastic wrap and allow to drain for about 5 minutes. Transfer the ricotta to a small bowl, wiping as much of the ricotta from the cheesecloth as possible. Repeat with the remaining 2 cups milk, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 2 tablespoons lemon juice.

Once you have made all the ricotta, either chill it in the refrigerator until you're ready to use it or use immediately. If you opt to chill the ricotta until you're ready to use it, allow it to come to room temperature before serving.

Herb Honey

Any combination of spices and fresh herbs would be wonderful here. Instead of (or in addition to) cloves, think about peppercorns, cinnamon sticks, or ginger. Similarly, other herbs like thyme, mint, and basil would also be delicious. Keep an eye on the honey as it heats (especially if you opt to use the microwave) to avoid any overflow.

Yield: About 1/4 cup honey

About 3 tablespoons honey
4-6 cloves
2-3 sprigs fresh rosemary

In a microwave-safe bowl, combine honey, cloves, and rosemary. Microwave until warm, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the microwave and allow to sit until ready to use. Alternatively, combine the honey, cloves, and rosemary in a small saucepan over medium heat. Cook until bubbling. Remove from heat and allow to sit until ready to use.

Orange Toast 

Any hearty country loaf, such as ciabatta, will work wonderfully here. Slice the bread about 1/2- to 3/4-inch thick. If you don't have a grill pan, toast the bread in the oven or in the skillet. Toast in the oven at 400 degrees F or in a skillet set over medium heat for about 5 minutes per side, or until golden brown.

Yield: 4 - 6 servings

8 slices (about half a loaf) of hearty, crusty bread (see note)
Extra virgin olive oil
Juice of half an orange

Heat a grill pan over medium heat. Place the slices of bread on the grill pan and brush with extra-virgin olive oil. Grill for about 5 minutes per side, or until golden brown. Flip the bread slices and grill for another 5 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove the toast slices from the grill pan and spritz with the orange juice (not too much, or the bread will become soggy). Use or serve immediately.

Homemade Pizza Two Ways

When I was little, we used to go to a restaurant that would give kids little balls of pizza dough to play with before the food arrived. It was so much more exciting than crayons and a coloring book. Although I can't remember what restaurant it was that offered this unusual activity, I do remember how fun it was to stretch and mold that dough. It was like all-natural play-doh, but you could actually eat it (or, you could eat it and it wouldn't taste awful).

I hadn't thought about this distant memory for many years until yesterday. As I was making my own pizza dough, the aroma of flour and yeast suddenly brought me back to my childhood. It's safe to say that the scent of fresh dough is one of my favorites, right behind the smell of warm butter and sugar.

Although it's hard to believe, there was a brief time a few years ago when I didn't even like pizza (gasp!). Thank goodness my tastes have adapted, because good pizza is really one of my favorite foods. And when you can make good pizza at home? Even better.

It's my goal this summer to make homemade bread and this pizza was a successful foray into yeast breads. The dough itself was incredibly easy to make. Kneading the dough by hand really allows you to experience the transformation from a shaggy, floury amalgamation to a smooth, elastic ball of dough. After a leisurely rise, the dough was ready to be stretched and adorned with toppings.

I think my favorite thing about pizza is how creative you can be with the toppings. This batch of dough made enough for two medium-sized pizzas and I wanted to make one classic pizza and one that was a bit more whimsical. For the classic pizza, I took inspiration from one of my new cookbooks, Molto Gusto by Mario Batali. There are dozens of pizza recipes in the book, and one that looked particularly delicious combined tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella cheese, anchovies, and capers.

Romana pizza with tomato, fresh mozzarella, anchovies, and capers

While that pizza is decidedly savory, the other has several sweet components. The pizza has a base of sweet caramelized onions; fig jam, mascarpone cheese, balsamic reduction, and chopped pistachios finish the pizza, offering contrasting tastes and textures.

Pizza with caramelized onions, fig jam, mascarpone, pistachios, and balsamic syrup

Both of these pizzas are equally delicious (my mom enjoyed the caramelized onion and fig pizza, while I was fonder of the tomato and anchovy one) and their brief sojourn on a baking stone in a searingly hot oven rendered the crust crisp yet chewy.

We couldn't stop "mmm"-ing and "ahh"-ing over this simple yet satisfying meal. With pizza this good and this easy, it's safe to say we will be for a good while longer.

Pizza so good you'll eat half a slice before photos have been taken (*cough* mom! *cough*)

Homemade Pizza
Adapted from Smitten Kitchen

If you want to make a plain (not whole-wheat) pizza dough, simply use 3 cups of all-purpose flour. The dough may not need as much water (as whole-wheat flour absorbs more moisture than all-purpose) and may not need as much time to rise, so adjust accordingly. You can use dry active yeast instead of instant yeast. Simply use the same amount of yeast but add lukewarm water (about 105 to 110 degrees F) to the dry ingredients.

Yield: enough dough for 2 medium-sized thin crust pizzas

2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting work surface
1/2 cup whole-wheat flour
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 1/2 teaspoons instant yeast
1 cup plus 1 tablespoon water
1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Cornmeal, for dusting
2 recipes of pizza toppings (see two variations below)

Mix flours, salt, and yeast in a large bowl. Add water and olive oil and mix until just combined and the dough is shaggy. Pour the dough onto a well-floured surface (I used a large Silpat baking mat) and knead, folding the dough into itself, until the dough is smooth, about 2 to 4 minutes. Form the dough into a ball.

Pizza dough before the rising period

Spray the bowl you mixed the dough in with non-stick baking spray (or drizzle with olive oil). Add the ball of dough to the bowl and coat with the oil. Cover the bowl with a layer of plastic wrap and allow to rise in a draft-free space for about 90 minutes, until the dough has doubled in size.

 Pizza dough after the rising period 

Pizza dough after being shaped into two balls

Once the dough has doubled in size, preheat a baking stone (or an overturned sheet pan) in the oven to 500 degrees F. Transfer the dough to a well-floured surface and gently press the air out of the dough with the palm of your hand. Take half of the dough and pat it into a round with your hands. Using your fingertips, poke dimples into the dough, slowly pushing the dough outward. Once the dough is about 8 inches in diameter, begin to gently stretch the dough thinner. Placing one hand in the center of the round, use your other hand to stretch the dough outward. Turn the dough as you go to evenly stretch the dough.

When the dough is stretched very thin (about 1/8 inch thick), dust a pizza peel or a sheet of parchment with cornmeal. Carefully transfer the dough round to the peel or parchment and add the toppings.

Once the toppings are added, transfer the dough to the oven. If the dough is on a pizza peel, slide the dough onto the baking stone or overturned pan by quickly jerking the peel forward and then pulling it back. If the dough is on a sheet of parchment, simply transfer the parchment to the baking stone or slide the dough off of the parchment and onto the stone.

Bake for 10 minutes, or until the crust is golden and crisp and the toppings are bubbly and delicious.

Carefully remove the pizza from the oven and allow to cool for a minute or two before cutting into slices, serving, and devouring.

Romana Pizza Topping
Inspired by Mario Batali's Molto Gusto

It's important to use fresh mozzarella here and not the the low-moisture, pre-shredded stuff, which won't melt as well and taste as creamy as the fresh kind. Anchovies often get a bad rap for being overly fishy and salty, but the heat of the oven really transforms them. Here, they are not fishy at all but subtly salty and savory; in a word: awesome. However, if you're still worried about an unwelcome fishiness in your pizza, white anchovies are much more mild than the more common brown anchovies, and you may find that they are less offensive to you. The capers add a welcome brininess that complements the creamy cheese and slightly sweet tomato sauce. If you have a favorite pizza sauce, feel free to use 1 cup of that. 

Yield: enough topping for 1 pizza

About 1 cup canned tomato sauce
2 teaspoons dried Italian herb blend (or a mixture of dried basil, thyme, and oregano)
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
About ounces fresh mozzarella cheese
8 anchovy fillets, rinsed
2 tablespoons capers, drained

In a small bowl, combine tomato sauce, 1 teaspoon of the dried herbs, garlic powder, and salt and pepper to taste. Spoon the tomato sauce onto the pizza dough, spreading it out in an even layer, leaving a 1/2-inch border. Tear the cheese into medium-sized pieces and distribute it in an even layer on top of the sauce. Arrange the anchovies on top of the cheese, making sure to distribute them evenly (I placed whole fillets in the center then put smaller pieces around the edges). Distribute the capers evenly on top of the pizza. Finally, sprinkle the remaining 1 teaspoon of dried herbs evenly over the pizza.

The finished product: pure deliciousness

Caramelized Onion and Fig Pizza Topping

Although this topping has several components, all of the elements are easy to prepare. In this recipe, I use my favorite way to caramelize onions, which uses no oil or sugar (I promise you don't need it!). You can make the caramelized onions ahead of time and store them in the refrigerator for several days. The measurements in this topping are not exact. If you want a sweeter or  cheesier pizza, for example, add more of the fig jam and mascarpone cheese. Instead of mascarpone cheese, a creamy cheese like Fontina, Brie, or Gruyere would also be incredibly delicious.

Yield: enough topping for 1 pizza

1/2 large onion, sliced into half-inch rounds 
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
About 1/2 cup water
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
2 to 3 tablespoons fig jam
3 to 4 tablespoons mascarpone cheese
1/4 cup shelled pistachios, roughly chopped

Heat a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat and add the onions in an even layer. Leave the onions alone for about a minute, until they begin to slightly brown around the edges and stick to the pan. They'll begin to get sticky. Season them liberally with salt and pepper and stir with a spatula. After another minute or so, you'll begin to see a brown film develop on the bottom of the pan (these are the sugars from the onion). Add a few tablespoons of water and scrape the bottom of the pan to release the browned bits. The onions should begin to take on a golden brown color. Continue stirring until all the browned bits have been released from the pan.

Again, leave the onions alone for a few minutes, until they start to stick to the pan and more browned bits develop on the bottom of the pan. Add more water as before. Continue this process as necessary -- adding more water, scraping, and leaving the onions alone -- until the onions are soft, deeply brown, and sweet. It could take anywhere from 15 to 20 minutes longer. When the onions are fully caramelized, transfer them to a bowl and either store in the refrigerator for up to a week or use on the pizza immediately.

Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, heat the balsamic vinegar over medium-low heat until it has reduced to about 2 tablespoons and is thick and syrupy. Reduce the heat to low and set aside until you are ready to top the pizza.

To top the pizza, spread the dough with the caramelized onions in an even layer, leaving a 1/2-inch border. Next, dot the pizza with the fig jam and mascarpone cheese. Drizzle the balsamic syrup evenly over the pizza. Finally, sprinkle the chopped pistachios over the top.

The finished product: sweet and savory pizza heaven

Peanut Butter and Jelly Bars

I think every American child has memories of her first peanut butter and jelly sandwich. There's something so truly American about this classic combination. For me, I remember being in kindergarten, making my own lunch for the first time. I quickly discovered that you had to add lots of peanut butter to the slice of bread to get it to spread right (too little and the bread tore).

I don't think I've had a peanut butter and jelly sandwich in eight or nine years. That's not to say that I don't enjoy the combination, because I certainly do. I'm actually more of a peanut butter and banana sandwich fan. I perfected this sandwich in my youth: two slices of wheat bread, a whole sliced banana, and a few swipes of peanut butter. The most important part of the sandwich construction was making sure that the peanut butter and banana were properly layered. I would meticulously spread the peanut butter on the bread slice, then add banana slices in one even layer on top. On the other slice of bread, I'd start with banana slices and spread the peanut butter on top. This way, each bite insured that you had the perfect integration and distribution of peanut butter and banana.
  
But as much as I love those peanut butter and banana sandwiches (and, let's face it, anything with peanut butter in it at all), I don't even buy peanut butter. Our dorm room must be the first that doesn't even have a jar of peanut butter in it. This must be violating some sort of college student code.
  
Still, I'm drawn to any sort of treat that satisfies my childhood nostalgia: homemade Girl Scout cookies, old-fashioned spaghetti and meatballs, homemade mac and cheese, and, perhaps most of all, peanut butter and jelly bars.
  
I first came across a recipe for peanut butter and jelly bars in Ina Garten's cookbook Barefoot Contessa At Home. This book is one of my favorites from of her collection of cookbooks. I remember being instantly drawn to these cookies, but I never had the chance to make them.
  
Recently, I began seeing these bar cookies pop up around different blogs that I read, and I took that as a sign that I should make them. This past week, I volunteered to bake for my hall. Every Wednesday, we have "Midweek Munchies" (usually referred to as just "Midweek"), where someone on our floor chooses a sweet to bake. This week was my turn, and baking these bars was the perfect reprieve from all the final work I had to do before spring break.
  
As far as recipes go, this one was remarkably easy. I'm a notoriously slow cook and baker, and these took only about 30 minutes for me to prepare (in a dorm-room kitchen, mind you). Like my beloved peanut butter and banana sandwiches, these bars are cleverly layered. The bottom of the cookie is similar to a peanut butter cookie base. A layer of jam is then spread over the base before being dolloped with the remainder of the peanut butter cookie mixture. Finally, a scattering of chopped peanuts adds some texture to the finished cookies.
  
I was actually incredibly surprised by how good these bars were. The peanuts added a bit of saltiness that was the perfect complement to the sweet jam. Everyone on my hall quickly devoured these, no doubt a testament to both their deliciousness and the childhood memories they inspire.


Peanut Butter and Jelly Bars
From Ina Garten

While I was making these cookies, I couldn't help but think about all the different variations I could come up with based on this recipe. Instead of jam in the middle, my roommates and I were dreaming of Nutella for an addictive chocolate and peanut butter combination. We also thought that instead of peanuts, a different nut like almonds or cashews (my roommate loves cashews) would be great in the nut dough. If I give any of these a try, I'll definitely let you know how they turn out. I used strawberry jam in these bars, but you can use your favorite flavor (such as raspberry or fig). Due to dorm kitchen limitations, we baked these in two 8 by 8-inch pans. Use either that or a 9 by 13-inch pan.

Yield: about 36 squares, depending on the size you cut them

2 sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1 (18-ounce) jar creamy peanut butter
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 1/2 cups (about 18 ounces) strawberry jam
2/3 cup roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped

Adjust an oven rack to the center position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Line either a 9 by 13-inch baking pan or two 8 by 8-inch baking pans with parchment paper and then grease and flour the pan.

Either in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or in a large bowl with a hand mixer, cream the butter and sugar on medium speed until light yellow and fluffy, about 2 minutes. With the mixer on low speed, add the vanilla, eggs, and peanut butter and mix until all the ingredients are combined.

In a medium bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, and salt. With the mixer on low speed, slowly add the flour mixture to the peanut butter mixture. Mix until just combined.

Spread 2/3 of the dough into the prepared pan and, using your hands or a knife, spread into an even layer. Next, spread the jam out over the peanut butter layer and smooth into an even layer. With the remaining 1/3 of the dough, drop small globs of the peanut butter dough over the jam. Try to distribute the dough as evenly as possible, but don't worry if all the jam isn't covered - the dough will spread in the heat of the oven. Sprinkle the dough with the chopped peanuts and bake for 45 minutes. The top will be golden brown and the jam will be hot and bubbly.

Cool the bars in the pan and cut into squares. Serve either warm or at room temperature. The peanut butter and jelly bars will keep, stored in an airtight container at room temperature, for up to 3 days.

A List

1. Twenty-four hours from now, I will be in the air, on my way across the country to visit my sister in Los Angeles for spring break. To say I'm excited would be an understatement. I am so looking forward to seeing her and this new city. It's sure to be a fun (and relaxing!) few days with lots of yummy, California food.

2. I am continually amazed by the food blogosphere. I'm relatively new to the whole thing. I've been reading many blogs for years (like Smitten Kitchen and The Girl Who Ate Everything), but I've only recently started to read dozens of them. I (naively) thought that after Christmas and New Year's the content would become a bit less dense.  It seems that food bloggers make holidays out of just about everything. Super Bowl Sunday was a major event. The fervor around Valentine's Day was to be expected. I didn't think there were any major holidays coming up in March, but apparently Mardi Gras and St. Patrick's Day are calls for celebration. I wonder if April Fool's will be celebrated, as well. [Edited to add: I recently saw a recipe for Daylight Savings Time. Do people actually celebrate losing an hour of sleep?]

3. Speaking of strange "holidays," the new "trend" seems to be National [Insert Random Food Item Here] Day. Today is actually National Corned Beef and Cabbage Day (how appropriate). Yesterday was National Artichoke Hearts Day. July 30 is actually National Cheesecake Day. Needless to say I'll be happily celebrating that day.

4. I recently received a fantastic (and fantastically heavy!) package from my friend Lisa, whom my mom met through Ravelry. Through her job, Lisa has access to shelves of books of all kinds. I'm predictably interested in only the cookbooks, and I am so excited to dig into these new titles. The package contained In the Kitchen with a Good Appetite, Molto Mario, Heart of the Artichoke, The Perfect Finish, and Martha Stewart's Dinner at Home. (There was also a bonus Vogue Knitting Shawls and Wraps book for my mom.) It's official: Best. Mail. Ever.

Gorgeous figs from a page of Heart of the Artichoke by David Tanis

5. Last week I finally ate all of my raw almonds. I remembered seeing some roasted almonds at the convenience-type store behind my dorm and went to pick some up. Unfortunately, they didn't have plain roasted almonds, but there were two rather unusual flavors: Smoked Jalapeno and Soy Wasabi. I went with Soy Wasabi for... absolutely no reason at all. These almonds are addictive. They're not outrageously spicy - the heat lasts for about five seconds and then you want another one. Yep, highly addictive. Who knew these types of crazy flavors even existed?

6. I'm getting into new music again. Thankfully, my playlists are no longer exclusively songs from The O.C. Progress. Now most of them are from Grey's Anatomy. But they're not all like the typical "Grey's"-y songs, I promise! (You know the kind - a precocious indie woman, with a melody that's either wholly depressing or annoyingly upbeat? Yeah, none of that.) I am currently loving everything by Mumford & Sons, "Off I Go" by Greg Laswell, and "Little Bit" by Lykke Li (pronounced "leek-y lee"; love that music video, too). Give them a listen; you won't be disappointed.

7. Speaking of The O.C., do you remember when I mentioned my idea to write about the show for my English class's blog? Well, I went through with it and it was the most self-indulgent yet fun writing assignment I've ever done for an academic class. I'm continually grateful for this show; it never stops paying it forward. You can check out the blog entry here.

8. Last weekend my friend Catherine and I went to Octane, a "coffee bar and lounge" near campus. When I was in high school, I really took for granted the caliber of coffee that we have at our house. It's surprisingly hard to find "good coffee" (how Ina of me) here, but this was really good. They give you your very own French press when you order, too. The space feels very urban and bohemian. Catherine said that she felt like the guys there were "my type." Hmm... now what's that supposed to mean? 

French press and mug from Octane

9. I baked this week for my hall. Recipe and post forthcoming. I can't wait to share what I made; it was insanely delicious.

10. Happy (almost) Friday! 

Creamy Buttermilk Caesar Salad Dressing

In terms of the most underrated and under-appreciated ingredients in the kitchen, buttermilk is pretty hard to beat. But its benefits reach far beyond baking. While buttermilk does play a pivotal role in everything from muffins to waffles to cornbread, I don't think that recipes for those foods really show off the buttermilk's tangy flavor or unbelievable creaminess.  That's why my favorite way to use buttermilk is in its raw form.

To be honest, I love the flavor of plain buttermilk. Coming from a non-milk drinker, that's saying a lot. It tastes like liquid sour cream and it's so rich that just a little bit goes a long way. But I understand that drinking buttermilk straight is kind of gross and disconcerting for most.

Recently, I've started using buttermilk is salad dressing. One of my favorite summertime salads is Deb from Smitten Kitchen's corn bread salad. It has a buttermilk lime dressing that's loaded with herbs and sweet and tangy flavor. It's a fun spin on my all-time favorite bread salad. Nevertheless, the dressing is a bit thin and the fresh lime and herbs that it contains don't make it year-round fare.

Enter Cook's Illustrated. I've described my love for Cook's Illustrated and my nearly limitless faith in their recipes. A few months ago, we acquired their Healthy Family Cookbook, which has been an incredible addition to our growing cookbook collection. It's sort of like the classic Best Recipe cookbook for lightweights. And by lightweight I mean that the cookbook is loaded with pictures but withholds the exhaustive recipe testing notes (which are actually my favorite part, but then again I also think Lagrange multipliers are fun) . This is the kind of cookbook that showcases easy, everyday recipes that just happen to be healthy.

I was intrigued by their section on salads. Despite the reputation that salad has for being a healthy food lover's dream, the truth is that some salads, with their oil- or fat-heavy dressings and myriad of toppings, aren't as wholesome as they're cracked up to be. It's actually pretty shocking to discover the nutritional information behind just a few tablespoons of salad dressing. However, the folks at America's Test Kitchen devised an ingenious way to retain the familiar flavor of Caesar salad dressing and the thick and creamy texture without the extra calories and fat. The secret ingredient? Low-fat buttermilk.

Here, buttermilk lends its tangy flavor and thickness to the salad dressing. Other pantry staples complete the dressing, making it a perfect dressing to make year-round. A bit of mayonnaise and Dijon mustard add body; the dressing's salty, savory notes come from a few dashes of Worcestershire sauce and some minced anchovies. Only two tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil (a fraction of the amount called for in our previous go-to recipe from Ina Garten) are needed to round out the dressing. What results is something that is surprisingly and unexpectedly delicious, endlessly creamy with a pleasing sourness from lemon juice and buttermilk. It's actually hard to believe that it's a healthy recipe.

No longer will you worry about what to do with the extra half-carton of buttermilk that you have languishing in the refrigerator unused. Make this salad dressing! In fact, I think we may have to start buying buttermilk regularly. I've already started to think about different variations for this recipe: green goddess and ranch dressings come to mind, but even simple additions like herbs or a different vinegar could really transform the dressing.

I realize that I just spent seven paragraphs talking about salad dressing of all things, but I simply cannot withhold my love for this new recipe. I suppose there are worse things I could be obsessed with. Cheesecake, for example. Oh, wait....

Creamy Buttermilk Caesar Salad Dressing 
Adapted from The America's Test Kitchen's Healthy Family Cookbook

This dressing is the perfect complement to more substantial salad greens like romaine or red-leaf lettuce and baby spinach. To make a more substantial salad, add Ina Garten's Caesar additions: oven-roasted cherry tomatoes, crispy pancetta, and perhaps some garlic croutons.

Yield: about 3/4 cup dressing

1/4 cup buttermilk
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons light mayonnaisse
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
3 anchovy fillets, rinsed and minced
1 garlic clove, minced
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup (about 1 ounce) grated parmesan cheese, optional

In a measuring cup or jar, add all ingredients except olive oil and cheese. Whisk vigorously to incorporate (if using a measuring cup) or shake the jar to incorporate the ingredients. If using a whisk, slowly drizzle in the olive oil while whisking to emuslify the dressing. If using a jar, add the olive oil and shake well to emulsify. Add the parmesan, if using, and serve atop salad greens.

The dressing will keep, stored in the refrigerator in an airtight container, for up to a week.

Butternut Squash, White Bean, and Kale Soup

I've said it here before but I rarely get the opportunity to cook. Living in a dorm really limits my resources, and my hectic schedule also makes it difficult to cook more than oatmeal or a baked potato. Thankfully I'll be living in an apartment-style suite next year that comes fully equipped with everything a cooking student could want: a refrigerator, a microwave, a stove, an oven, and - here's the real kicker - a dishwasher. Is it crazy to think that a dishwasher is the most underrated and under-appreciated kitchen tool out there?

Because I'm me, I've already started thinking about recipes that would be suitable for college life. My mind immediately goes to soups and stews, which are endlessly adaptable, easy to make ahead, and can last a while. There's also the added benefit that they can feed a lot of people for not that much money.

Last weekend I spent a few days at home and made this butternut squash and white bean soup for my mom and me.  I changed a handful of things from the original recipe, but in the end, I am extremely pleased with how it turned out. The end result was a hearty soup with a mixture of textures and flavors. The white beans were creamy, the butternut squash was perfectly tender, and the kale, a last minute addition, gave the soup a much-needed green component and definitely boosted the soup overall. For being so simple, the soup is surprisingly complex. There's a lot going on, but I think that only makes it more fun to eat.

The most unique thing about this soup - what really makes it worthy of sharing - is the balance between savory, sweet, and acidic flavors. The white beans and chicken broth are earthy and balanced by the sweet squash and acidic additions of tomatoes and dry white wine.  Altogether, they combine to form a vibrantly colored and delicious soup that is ideal for any kitchen table.


Butternut Squash, White Bean, and Kale Soup
Inspired by Sweet Paul Magazine via Dancing by the Light 

I changed quite a few things about the original recipe to adapt our tastes and what we had on hand. The original recipe instructed you to cook the butternut squash in a pan with the onions and garlic until the squash was tender. Since we don't have a pan ginormous enough to fit that much onion and squash, I improvised and roasted the squash in the oven for 20 minutes, until the white beans and broth had finished simmering together. After additional time in the broth, the squash had softened just enough.
I prefer soups to be pretty loose and not so thick, so I added a few cups of water after the soup had simmered and then seasoned the broth to taste. If you like thicker soups, you can certainly omit this step. As it sits, the soup thickens considerably, so you can add chicken broth to loosen it up some then, as well.

Yield: 8 to 10 servings

1 pound dry white beans (such as Great Northern, Navy, or Cannellini)
6 cups chicken or vegetable broth 
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 medium onion, diced
3 cloves minced garlic
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 medium butternut squash, peeled and diced into 1-inch pieces 
1 cup dry white wine
1 teaspoon sugar, or to taste
4 Roma tomatoes, chopped into 1-inch pieces
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 bunch kale, stemmed and torn into bite-size pieces

Rinse the beans in a colander, picking them over to remove any small rocks. Place the beans in a large pot and add 8 cups water. Bring to a boil, remove the pot from the heat, cover, and let sit for 1 hour. After 1 hour, drain the beans. Return the beans to the pot and add 6 cups of chicken broth. Heat the beans and broth over medium heat and simmer for 45 minutes, until the beans are just soft.

Meanwhile, in a medium skillet heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions soften and become translucent. Add the garlic, a pinch of salt, and a pinch of pepper and continue to cook until the garlic becomes fragrant, about 1 minute more.

After the beans and broth have been simmering together for 20 minutes, preheat the oven to 400 degrees F and line a baking sheet with foil. Roast the butternut squash for 20 minutes, until it just starts to become tender.

After the beans and broth have simmered for 45 minutes, add the onions and garlic and the squash to the pot. Add the wine, sugar, tomatoes, and thyme. Stir to combine. Continue to cook for 45 minutes more. After 45 minutes, the soup will have reduced and thickened some. If you like, you can thin it out with 2 cups of water and adjust the seasonings to taste from there.

Add the kale to the soup and cook for 10 minutes more, until the kale has softened some but remains al dente. Taste the broth and season to taste. Serve hot with crusty bread to soak up the delicious broth.

The soup will keep, stored in an airtight container, for up to a week. As it sits, it will thicken considerably. When reheating, add additional broth to loosen it up.

Simplest Applesauce

If I could use one word to describe my cooking style, it would be simple. My favorite recipes and foods are usually the simplest, with few embellishments and incredibly easy preparations. Case in point: roasted root vegetables and plain cheesecake (it seems I can't get through a post without mentioning cheesecake). I'd so much rather eat a roasted sweet potato with little more than salt and pepper than a concoction that adds a myriad of different flavorings and ingredients so you can hardly taste the sweet potato-ness in the finished product. 

Take apples. I love apples. All kinds. I don't think I've ever met an apple that I didn't like. From Pink Lady to Golden Delicious to Honeycrisp (swoon) to the ubiquitous Granny Smith, I love them all. There is something so satisfying to biting into a crisp apple, juicy and sweet, with a hint of tartness coming through toward the end.

Plain apples, eaten out of hand, are one of my favorite foods. In my mind, they are perfect as is. Sometimes, though, when the mood strikes, I love to make a batch of applesauce. Usually I get the craving for applesauce around the holidays, or when the temperatures drop and a spoonful of warm applesauce seems the perfect antidote to the chilly weather. Keeping true to my simple is best philosophy, I make my applesauce with nothing but apples and water. It's almost embarrassingly easy, but the end product is proof that this strategy works. Fresh apples don't need anything else to taste wonderful. They already have the whole sweet/tart balance going for them, and when cooked down, I think the flavor concentrates into something greater than the sum of its parts.

Make this in the dead of winter, when you've had your share of citrus, to serve alongside any number of dishes. It would be great as a sweet side to poultry or pork, atop pancakes (sweet or savory) or waffles, or as an accompaniment to spice breads or cakes. As for me? I enjoy it alone, with only a spoon and perhaps a sprinkling of cinnamon for some warm spiciness. Yup, typical.

My Favorite Applesauce

Like nearly all foods, I enjoy my applesauce with some real texture so I leave it pretty chunky. If you like your applesauce smoother, or are using it in another application where smoothness is desired, you can use a foodmill to get it more evenly pureed. One of my favorite things about this "recipe" is that it's incredibly adaptable depending on how much applesauce you want to make. I usually make this around the holidays (it's a mainstay on our Thanksgiving table) so I make a large batch. You can adjust the proportions accordingly depending on how much you want to make. I find that sweet/tart apples work best for applesauce because they result in an end product that's sweet without being cloying. Golden Delicious (my favorite apple to eat out of hand), Pink Lady, Jonagold, Gala, and Honeycrisp are all excellent varieties perfectly suited for applesauce. Another great thing about applesauce? It's perfect for using apples that have seen better days or are just languishing, uneaten, in your crisper. This technique also works great with pears, although "pearsauce" just doesn't have that same ring to it, does it?

Yield: 10-12 servings

8 large to medium sweet/tart apples (see note)
Water

Peel and core the apples. Slice them into medium chunks (about 1 1/2-inch pieces) and place in a large pot. Pour in enough water to come halfway up the apples. Heat the apples and water over medium heat for about 30 minutes, or until the apples are very tender. With a potato masher (you could also use a wooden spoon and a bit more elbow grease), mash the apples until they form a chunky sauce. For a smoother applesauce, transfer the whole mixture to a food mill and process the apples until they reach the desired consistency. Transfer back to the pot.

At this point, the applesauce will be a little loose. Reduce the heat to low and simmer the applesauce for 20 to 30 minutes, until some of the water has evaporated and the applesauce is thick. Store the applesauce in the pot or in an airtight container for up to a week. Serve warm or cold.

P.S. I know I said that this year I wanted to post once a week. I also know it's been two weeks since my last post. Unfortunately, this past week was filled with three tests, a project, and lots of homework assignments. Since one of my other New Year's resolutions was to maintain my grades, I see this as a trade-off. I'm hoping to resume my minimum of one post a week from here on out, though. Thanks for reading, as always.