The Perfect Biscotti

I’ve described my (seemingly lifelong) search for The Perfect Cheesecake at great length. Little did I know that I have also been searching for The Perfect Biscotti.

For a long time, I didn’t like biscotti. (The same goes for yogurt, coffee, and pizza—don’t ask.) It was something about the texture (also a paramount issue when it comes to cheesecake). I didn’t like how unbelievably crunchy and hard they were. I know it seems strange to complain about a quality that a specific food is known for. Sticking with the cheesecake comparison, it’s like complaining that a slice is too creamy (impossible, if you ask me).
              
Nevertheless, I only really started to appreciate biscotti a few years ago when I discovered that they are the perfect accompaniment to various hot beverages (especially a cup of good, strong coffee). When dunked for just a few seconds, they soften ever so slightly and their crunchiness actually becomes one of their strongest assets.
              
Like my hunt for the perfect plain cheesecake, I’ve never found a plain biscotti recipe that merited the description of “perfect.” Most biscotti contain a mixture of add-ins, from dried fruit and nuts to chocolate. Not that there’s anything wrong with these embellishements, but sometimes I want a biscotti cookie base that is flavorful enough without the extras. So you can imagine my surprise when I discovered my ideal biscotti when I was least expecting it—it’s actually from a healthy cooking source.
              
Although I strive to eat healthfully for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, when dessert comes around, I believe that it’s important to indulge in the good stuff (in moderation). And it definitely still has to taste good.
              
Whole wheat flour gives these biscotti a deliciously nutty, almost buttery flavor and a coarser texture that enhances their crunch. I don’t use whole wheat flour much in my baking, but I really think whole wheat is the key to how delicious these cookies are. I added blood orange zest to them because I was serving them with blood orange sorbet (from Ciao Bella – OMG, delicious); the zest added a subtle citrus flavor that complemented the earthier butter, sugar, flour flavor combination at play.

Now that I finally have my Perfect Biscotti in the books, I think it’s time to embark upon my next Perfect Recipe quest. Thoughts? I’m leaning toward chocolate chip cookies. This could be dangerous….

The Perfect Biscotti
Adapted from The America's Test Kitchen Healthy Family Cookbook

Below is the full recipe, which should make about 30 cookies. I halved the recipe easily because I didn't want to make too many cookies, so I only formed one log of dough. The dough is pretty sticky, so when forming the logs I find it easiest to wet my hands a little as opposed to flouring them, which I think is messier. Although I love the pure flavor of these cookies, I think they would take well to additions like nuts, dried fruits, and spices. Add 3/4 cup of toasted chopped nuts (such as pecans, pistachios, almonds, walnuts, or hazelnuts) or dried fruits (such as cherries, cranberries, or raisins), or even 1/2 teaspoon spices (such as cinnamon or nutmeg).

Yield: about 30 cookies

1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup whole-wheat flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon table salt
1 cup sugar
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, softened
2 large eggs
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon blood orange zest (about 2 oranges)

Adjust an oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

In a medium bowl, whisk the flours, baking powder, and salt together. In a large bowl, beat the sugar and butter together using an electric mixer on medium speed until creamy, about 3 minutes. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, until combined, scraping down the bowl and beaters as necessary. Beat in the vanilla and zest. Reduce the mixer speed to low and slowly add in the flour mixture until combined, about 30 seconds.

Using your hands, divide the dough in half. Transfer each half to the parchment-lined baking sheet and form into two logs, each about 13 by 2 inches. Make sure that the two logs are spaced about 3 inches apart. The dough is pretty sticky, so I usually wet my hands slightly to keep it from sticking everywhere.

Bake the biscotti until golden, about 35 minutes, rotating the sheet pan halfway through the baking. Let the loaves cool on the baking sheet for 10 minutes, and lower the oven temperature to 325 degrees F. Using a serrated knife, cut the logs on a diagonal into 1/2-inch thick slices. Lay the slices, cut-side down, on the baking sheet and continue baking for 15 minutes, flipping the biscotti onto their other side halfway through baking. The biscotti should be crisp and golden brown.

Allow the biscotti to cool for about an hour before transferring to an airtight container. The biscotti will keep, stored in an airtight container at room temperature, for 2 to 3 weeks.

Spring Vegetable Risotto

One of my favorite things about living in Atlanta is that we get seasons. By that, I mean that there are distinctive differences between summer, fall, winter, and spring. Summer is brutally hot, usually humid, and lasts far too long if you ask me (as in, four-plus months of at least 90-degree weather). Fall is strange, characterized by moderate weather that creeps up on you very quickly (but it still is my favorite season). The only nice thing about winter here is the cute knitted items my mom makes for me, but other than that, no redeeming qualities. Spring is nice, though. Moderate temperatures, slight breezes, the first sign of life after a few months of gray skies. The only problem is that it just doesn't last long enough. Before I know it, it's too hot to roll down my windows when driving lest I melt from the searing temperatures. Still, after a winter full of citrus fruits (not my favorite) and... not much else, bright red fresh strawberries are just the thing to give me a case of spring fever. Of course, those usually arrive in late February or early March, when spring hasn't officially "sprung," so there are still more weeks to wait before the season's characteristic produce makes its way into markets. But once it does? Oh, I love spring.

One of my favorite ways to highlight seasonal produce is to make risotto. In fall, it's delicious with sauteed butternut squash and hints of saffron; wild mushrooms in winter make a wonderful savory risotto. We really enjoyed this version, which used a medley of asparagus, broccoli, fennel, and onions. Carrots would also be delicious, as would green peas. Some shrimp added while the rice is cooking can also bring it into true main dish territory (we are perfectly happy with a meatless risotto as the main dish with a green salad and good bread to accompany).

Risotto often gets a reputation for being a fussy, time-consuming dish, but the truth is that I think it's actually very low-maintenance. Despite what others say, you really don't have to stir it constantly for close to an hour. A few seconds of good stirring every few minutes will leave you with a perfectly creamy (yet creamless) final product.

Like many of my other favorite things to cook up in the kitchen, I love risotto because it feels like a fancy or special-occasion food but is so simple and easy to make and can be recreated in countless ways (see: cheesecake). The work is minimal but the payoff is a superb, unbeatable combination: a creamy and colorful rice brimming with the freshest vegetables that the season has to offer. A love letter to spring. Now, if only the 75-degree weather would return...


Spring Vegetable Risotto 
Inspired by Ina Garten 

To prepare the fennel, first reserve the fronds. Then chop the top stalks off and discard. Slice the bulb in half. To remove the core, make two 45-degree cuts into the core (it is a triangular solid whitish section at the bottom of the bulb) and remove the core. To prepare the asparagus, place one hand at each end of the stalk and bend until the asparagus snaps. Instead of or in addition to broccoli, consider adding green peas. If they're frozen, add them at the very end of the cooking time (no need to defrost). If they're fresh, blanch them for a few minutes until the starchiness is cooked off. Cooked shrimp would also be a delicious addition to this risotto.

Yield: 6-8 servings

2 teaspoons olive oil
1 medium onion, diced
1 fennel bulb, cored and diced, fronds reserved (see Note)
1 1/2 cups Arborio rice
1/2 cup dry white wine
6 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1 bunch asparagus, trimmed (see Note)
10 ounces chopped broccoli
Zest of 1 lemon
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onion and fennel and saute for 5 to 7 minutes, until the onions are translucent and both the onion and fennel have softened. Add the Arborio rice and stir to incorporate. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes; the ends of the rice grains will begin to look translucent. Add the wine and stir to deglaze the pan. Once the wine is absorbed, begin adding the chicken stock. Add the stock about 1 1/2 cups at a time, stirring to incorporate the stock at first. If you like, you can stir constantly, but if you don't enjoy standing over a hot stove, allow the rice to simmer away for a few minutes unattended, stirring every few minutes. Once all the stock has been absorbed, add 1 1/2 more cups until all the stock is gone or the rice is al dente, whichever comes first.

Meanwhile, while the rice is cooking, cut the asparagus into 1-inch pieces. Blanch the asparagus and broccoli briefly either in the microwave or in a pot on the stove. To blanch in the microwave, put the vegetables in a microwave-safe bowl, add enough water to come half-way up the vegetables, and microwave on high for about 2 minutes; then drain the vegetables. To blanch in a pot on the stove, heat a medium saucepan full of water. Once the water comes to a boil, add the vegetables and cook for about 4 minutes; then drain the vegetables. The asparagus and broccoli should be bright green and al dente.

Once half the stock is gone, add the asparagus and broccoli to the rice. Continue adding stock incrementally as before. When the rice is done, add the lemon zest, reserved fennel fronds, and salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.


The risotto will keep in the refrigerator for up to a week.

Homemade Ricotta with Herb Honey and Orange Toast

My favorite food city is, without question, New York. I love everything about the food atmosphere there. More so than any place I've ever traveled to, New Yorkers seem to really care about what they eat. Dining out is as much about the experience as it is about the food.

One dish in particular that stands out of the dozens I've tried in New York is whipped sheep's milk ricotta. At Locanda Verde, a restaurant in TriBeCa, it is served with truffle honey. And a hint of thyme. And burnt orange toast. Take it in.

Whipped sheep's milk ricotta, though? I know, that may sound a bit strange. And truffle honey and thyme and burnt orange toast? I know, it's a mouthful. But this appetizer (although, to be honest, I could eat it a whole bowl as a meal) is so insanely good. After my perfect cheesecake, this is the best thing I've ever  shared on this blog.

Despite the multiple components of the dish, it really is so simple. Cheese + bread = yum. For this reason, it's imperative that the star - the ricotta cheese - is of the best quality you can find. Using fresh ricotta is vital. Surprisingly, fresh ricotta can be somewhat difficult to track down, even in Los Angeles, where I made this with my sister. After coming up empty at Whole Foods, we headed to The Cheesestore of Silverlake. They, too, were out. We were pretty discouraged by this point (if a cheese shop didn't have it, then who else would?), but the woman working at the cheese shop started on about how easy it was to make ricotta cheese at home.

And she's right. I'd read about it countless times before. While it's not technically ricotta cheese because it doesn't use the leftover whey  from the cheese-making process like real ricotta does, it's undeniably delicious and miles ahead of anything store-bought in terms of texture and flavor. Creamy with a sweet, milky flavor, the ricotta is further enhanced with a drizzle of honey and a sprinkle of salt and pepper.

Taking inspiration from Locanda Verde, we then grilled up slices of a crusty hearth loaf and spritzed them with orange juice. Oh my. I was a bit nervous that our homemade ricotta simply wouldn't stand up to the lofty memories I had of Locanda Verde's rendition. Was I ever wrong. Even if I won't be making it back to New York soon to indulge in all its epicurean offerings, I'll rest assured that I can treat myself to this simplest of treats anytime.

Fresh Ricotta with Herb Honey and Orange Toast 
Inspired by Locanda Verde's Whipped Sheep's Milk Ricotta

If you used a lower-fat milk to make the homemade ricotta instead of whole milk, you can make the ricotta richer here by substituting half and half or heavy cream for the milk. Orange zest can be used in place of the lemon zest. To warm the honey, place it in a microwave-safe bowl and heat on medium power for 1 minute. Be careful that the honey doesn't overflow. Alternatively, heat it in a small saucepan over low heat.

Yield: 4-6 servings

About 1 cup fresh ricotta cheese, homemade (recipe below) or store-bought
3-4 tablespoons milk
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 teaspoon lemon zest
Herb Honey, warmed (recipe below)
Orange Toast (recipe below)

In a small bowl, combine ricotta and milk. The ricotta should be creamy but not too loose. Add more milk to reach the desired consistency. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Add the lemon zest and stir to combine. Drizzle the Herb Honey over the ricotta. Serve alongside warm slices of Orange Toast. 

Homemade Ricotta
Adapted from Serious Eats

Most versions of homemade ricotta utilize the stove to separate the curds in the milk from the whey. This version is far easier and far less fussy, using the microwave instead. It's important to use pasteurized milk instead of ultra-pasteurized milk. We used whole milk when we made this, but I have a feeling that using a lower-fat milk will work just as fine; the resulting ricotta won't taste exactly as rich, but you can certainly remedy this by using half and half or heavy cream instead of milk to mix with the ricotta in the first step of the recipe for Fresh Ricotta with Herb Honey and Orange Toast.

Yield: about 1 cup ricotta cheese

4 cups milk, preferably whole (see note)
1/2 teaspoon table salt
4 tablespoons lemon juice (about 1 lemon)

Begin by lining a colander with 4 layers of cheesecloth or 2 layers of paper towels and set over a large bowl. Combine 2 cups milk, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 2 tablespoons lemon juice in a microwave-safe glass 1-quart measuring cup. Microwave on high heat until lightly bubbling around the edges, anywhere from 2 to 4 minutes (ours took about 3 1/2 minutes). Remove from the microwave, and stir gently for 5 seconds. The milk should separate into solid white curds and translucent liquid whey. If not, microwave for 30 seconds longer, repeating as necessary until fully separated.

Using a slotted spoon or wire skimmer, transfer the curds to the prepared colander. Cover the exposed top with plastic wrap and allow to drain for about 5 minutes. Transfer the ricotta to a small bowl, wiping as much of the ricotta from the cheesecloth as possible. Repeat with the remaining 2 cups milk, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 2 tablespoons lemon juice.

Once you have made all the ricotta, either chill it in the refrigerator until you're ready to use it or use immediately. If you opt to chill the ricotta until you're ready to use it, allow it to come to room temperature before serving.

Herb Honey

Any combination of spices and fresh herbs would be wonderful here. Instead of (or in addition to) cloves, think about peppercorns, cinnamon sticks, or ginger. Similarly, other herbs like thyme, mint, and basil would also be delicious. Keep an eye on the honey as it heats (especially if you opt to use the microwave) to avoid any overflow.

Yield: About 1/4 cup honey

About 3 tablespoons honey
4-6 cloves
2-3 sprigs fresh rosemary

In a microwave-safe bowl, combine honey, cloves, and rosemary. Microwave until warm, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the microwave and allow to sit until ready to use. Alternatively, combine the honey, cloves, and rosemary in a small saucepan over medium heat. Cook until bubbling. Remove from heat and allow to sit until ready to use.

Orange Toast 

Any hearty country loaf, such as ciabatta, will work wonderfully here. Slice the bread about 1/2- to 3/4-inch thick. If you don't have a grill pan, toast the bread in the oven or in the skillet. Toast in the oven at 400 degrees F or in a skillet set over medium heat for about 5 minutes per side, or until golden brown.

Yield: 4 - 6 servings

8 slices (about half a loaf) of hearty, crusty bread (see note)
Extra virgin olive oil
Juice of half an orange

Heat a grill pan over medium heat. Place the slices of bread on the grill pan and brush with extra-virgin olive oil. Grill for about 5 minutes per side, or until golden brown. Flip the bread slices and grill for another 5 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove the toast slices from the grill pan and spritz with the orange juice (not too much, or the bread will become soggy). Use or serve immediately.

Strawberry Basil Frozen Yogurt with Lemon Nut Biscotti

Okay, I admit it. I spend way too much time online. Like, I should be packing (for college, you know) or doing laundry or researching the books I need for class or doing any number of more productive things than refreshing Facebook and ogling Photograzing and Tastespotting.

Haven't heard of these websites (hopefully you've heard of Facebook, if not then, well...)? Photograzing and Tastespotting are the best thing that ever happened to the Internet.

Since that's not a very great description of the service that these sites offer, let me paint you a little picture. Imagine all the best photographers in one place. Now imagine these photographers are also bloggers. Then imagine that they are food bloggers, not to mention really great cooks. And these really great photographers who are also really great cooks take lots of photos of the delicious things they make and then post the pictures for you to see, with links to their blogs where you can gawk at more yummy meals they've made. Essentially, this is Photograzing and Tastespotting. While Tastespotting is larger than Photograzing (an entity of Serious Eats), they both showcase fabulous food that is appealing to the eyes and, more importantly, the taste buds.

And that is where I found both of these recipes. For my sister's final meal before moving clear across the country, I had to come up with something seriously delicious for dessert. Enter Strawberry Basil Frozen Yogurt and Lemon Biscotti.

Both of these recipes were wonderful. The frozen yogurt has a strong (but not overwhelming) basil flavor that is complemented perfectly by the sweet berries. And the yogurt adds a nice tang to balance out the flavors. My favorite part about the recipe was the ease of its preparation. I'm a huge fan of Philadelphia-style ice creams and frozen yogurts that don't require that fussiness of a French-style custard ice cream.

As for the biscotti, this may be my new favorite biscotti recipe. It was the first biscotti dough I'd ever tried that did not include butter but only eggs. Traditional Italian recipes actually don't include butter at all, and I may begin to do the same. These biscotti are minimalist, save for some lemon zest and chopped nuts, but they have a wonderful sweetness to them with hints of vanilla, citrus, and almond. Alongside the tart yogurt, these are a perfect match and a fun, dressed-up version of cookies and ice cream.

Strawberry Basil Frozen Yogurt
From Dishing Up Delights

This recipe has balsamic vinegar in it, but to be honest I could not detect any sort of balsamic flavor in the final product. However, I love the taste of balsamic with strawberries and basil. I might try a balsamic syrup to pour over the yogurt the next time I make this by combining 2 parts balsamic vinegar and 1 part sugar in a saucepan til it gets nice and drizzly and syrupy. Yum.

Yield: about 1 quart

1 1/2 cups nonfat Greek yogurt
6 tablespoons sugar
3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 1/2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
8 ounces strawberries, washed and roughly chopped
1/2 cup loosely packed fresh basil leaves

In a large bowl, mix the Greek yogurt, sugar, vanilla, and balsamic vinegar until well combined.

In a food processor, pulse the strawberries until pureed. Add the basil and pulse until the basil is chopped but not entirely pureed. You should still see bits of green in the mixture. Add the strawberries to the yogurt mixture and refrigerate for at least an hour until chilled.

Transfer the mixture to the ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer's instructions. Transfer to a container and freeze for another 2 to 4 hours. Before serving, remove the frozen yogurt from the freezer and let it sit at room temperature for about 15 minutes or until it is scoopable.

Lemon Nut Biscotti
Adapted from The Ivory Hut

The original recipe used orange instead of lemon, but I thought the lemon flavor would work better with the strawberries and basil than the orange. Nevertheless, this is an extremely adaptable biscotti recipe. You could easily switch up the zest flavor and nut combination. Dried fruits like cranberries or cherries could also be added; other mix-ins like chocolate chips or crystallized ginger would also be delicious. Be creative! On a more technical note, this dough is very sticky. It will inevitably stick to your hands. I baked these on a Silpat baking mat and I suggest you do the same (or invest in some because they are awesome). The original recipe also called for a "scant" cup of sugar. While I really dislike measurements like that ("heaping" is another pet peeve), I ended up using probably what amounted to 1 cup minus 2 tablespoons, or 7/8 of a cup.

Yield: about 24 to 30 cookies, depending on how thickly you slice them.
3 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Zest of 1 lemon (about 3 to 4 teaspoons)
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 scant cup sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup combined almonds and pecans, toasted and chopped

Adjust an oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 300 degrees F. Line a half-sheet pan with a silicone baking mat (or with greased parchment paper).

In a small bowl, mix the eggs, vanilla, and lemon zest. In a larger bowl, mix the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Stir the wet mixture into the dry, using a spoon first and then using your hands. The dough will be very sticky and tacky. Stir in the nuts.
Transfer half of the dough to the baking sheet and shape into a log approximately 12 inches by 4 inches. Repeat with the other half of the dough, spacing the two logs about 4 inches apart (the logs will spread as they bake so make sure they have room to do so).

Bake for about 50 minutes, until golden brown. Transfer the logs (still on the silicone mat or parchment paper) to a cooling rack and cool for about 5 minutes. Lower the oven temperature to 275 degrees.

Transfer the logs back to the baking sheet. Use a serrated knife to slice the logs into about 1-inch thick slices. Turn the slices onto their side (cut-side down) and bake for another 12 to 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and (carefully) flip over the biscotti onto their other side. Bake for another 12 to 15 minutes. The biscotti will be crisp and golden brown when they are done.

Let the biscotti cool to room temperature. Store in an airtight container.

Easy Lemon Bars

My mom has a huge love for lemon bars. As someone who loves citrus in all applications, the culinary answer to a bar cookie and custard - all combined in one - is undoubtedly a hit.

My mom (okay, me, too) also has a huge love for Ina Garten. These lemon bars come from her cookbook Barefoot Contessa: Parties!, my personal favorite of her six books. I was most surprised by how quickly and easily these came together. Although the crust was a little sticky to assemble, likely because room temperature in the South during the summer is about 10 degrees warmer than normal, it baked up beautifully.

The filling could not be easier to whip up. Dump everything in a bowl and whisk until smooth: no separating of eggs, no sifting of dry ingredients. Seriously: dump and stir. It's that easy.

These lemon bars have an intense citrus flavor, the juice and zest of the lemons packing a dual punch. Serve these bars chilled or at room temperature, with a dusting of powdered sugar, and let your teeth sink in to the filling. This is undoubtedly a summer treat, perfect for any time of day: morning, noon, and night. As Ina would say, "How bad could that be?"

Easy Lemon Bars
Adapted from Ina Garten

I halved this recipe, which originally made about 40 triangles. We used a 7 by 9-inch glass baking dish, but an 8 by 8-inch pan would also do. Feel free to cut the bars as small or as big as you like; I think we ended up with about 16 modestly-sized triangles. These bars keep well in the refrigerator for about a week after you make them (if they last that long).

Yield: 16 triangles (or 8 squares)

For the crust:
1/4 pound (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 cups flour
A pinch of kosher salt

For the filling:
4 large eggs at room temperature
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
4 teaspoons grated lemon zest (3 lemons)
1/2 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 cup flour
Confectioners' sugar, for dusting

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

For the crust, cream the butter and sugar until light in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or use a hand mixer). Combine the flour and salt and, with the mixer on low, add to the butter until just mixed. Dump the dough onto a well-floured board and gather into a ball. Flatten the dough with floured hands and press it into a 7 by 9-inch baking dish, building up a 1/2-inch edge on all sides. Chill.

Bake the crust for 15 to 20 minutes, until very lightly browned. Let cool on a wire rack. Leave the oven on.

For the filling, whisk together the eggs, sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice, and flour. Pour over the crust and bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the filling is set. Let cool to room temperature.

Cut into triangles and dust with confectioners' sugar.