Today.

I had almost forgotten that today was September 11.

For the past 11 years, for some reason, I've been deeply interested in the events of that day. I cannot explain why. Maybe because it seemed the first defining moment of my life. People of generations before mine talk about the moment when they learned JFK was shot or when the Challenger shuttle exploded. My generation remembers the moment they learned the towers had fallen.

I remember that day almost as vividly eleven years later as I do last Tuesday. I remember that I was wearing--ironically, unknowingly--a shirt with an American flag on it. I remember hearing about the attacks after school. I was in the fourth grade. I had never even heard of the Twin Towers before, and I remember feeling guilty because of that.

I remember sitting on the floor in the family room, pouring over the newspaper, trying to understand. I didn't understand then. And I remember the aftermath, too. I had horrible nightmares for weeks.

I think that's why that day--and everything leading up to and following it--have captured me. It was an attempt to understand, to process.

But I woke up this morning as if it was any other Tuesday (it's not). It wasn't until a few hours into my day that I was reminded that, yes, today was not just another September day. My first reminder was this affecting blog entry. And then, passing by the small (but too large) square of miniature American flags on a patch of campus grass.

Now there are these photos-in-photos from Dear Photograph (you should see them for yourself).

They more eloquently capture what I am trying to. That we didn't understand anything then, that we still don't understand everything now, that there will always be something missing.

Two for Friday

1. "Anything Could Happen" by Ellie Goulding

2. "I've learned that you can tell a lot about a person by the way she handles these three things: a rainy day, lost luggage, and tangled Christmas tree lights."
-Maya Angelou

Scenes from Edinburgh

 I traveled to Edinburgh on train. It was my first train experience, and I have to say I'm a fan. I wish America could figure out mass transit the way Europeans have.

 
I was in Edinburgh July 5-8, or an entire month ago. So details about the specifics are a bit shaky, especially since I don't have many photos from the weekend.

Our hostel was in a great location, right near High Street, which is the commercial center of the city. Edinburgh is a lot like you'd imagine a medieval town to be: cobblestone streets, castles everywhere, and tons of little alleyways (called "closes"). This appearance reflects the town's history, which, unbeknownst to me, is rather dark and spooky.

This straight from the camera, and yes, it really was that dark in the middle of the morning. 

This is a view from the top of the hill near our hostel, overlooking the city.

Edinburgh's medieval roots boast many tales of ghosts, cruel punishments, and a creepy underground subculture. We took a ghost tour (touristy, but really fun) the second night we were there and actually got to go underground into the city's old vaults, where the city's black market used to be. Most of the "ghost stories" were pretty tame and silly, but the guide was really into everything so it was definitely fun. And I'd be lying if I said we didn't all freak out when the candles all blew out at the end and we were left in complete darkness inside the cavernous vaults.

Edinburgh is a fun city for site-seeing, but it's also fun to just hang around and go shopping, especially as a reprieve from the rain and cold! Edinburgh takes advantage of its famous Scottish heritage, so there is plaid everywhere, lots of wool shops, and tons of background on Scottish history and clans.

There were plaid and bagpipes everywhere!

The big toe on the statue of David Hume is rubbed for good luck.

We went to the National Museum to pass some time on Saturday (and, again, to get out of the rain), and I learned so much about Scottish history. It sort of makes me want to see Braveheart.

Dolly the cloned sheep at the National Museum; yes, that's really Dolly; no, she's not alive. 

Our final night there, we went around to some of the pubs in the center of town and did some amazing people watching. Edinburgh is apparently the bachelor and bachelorette capital of the world, and we saw many parties going on right in front of us. One pub we stumbled into had an older crowd (older than college-age, that is) and was playing an eclectic 80's and 90's playlist. We enjoyed singing along to Kajagoogoo (okay, maybe only I enjoyed this one) and B*Witched (total blast from 1998; also, holy sexual innuendos there: how was this appropriate at age 7?) and watching other group's shenanigans for a change.

London, etc.

Wow. So how is it that I was so good at blogging during the travel portion, when we were constantly busy every single day? And now when I get to Oxford, where I have only three hours of class a day, I've become the world's worst blogger?

Well, the classes I'm taking now are definitely harder than the music and art ones I took during the travel portion (actually, only Statics is challenging; the ethics class is just a lot of reading). So some of my time is taken up during that. Of course, life in Oxford is not as "exciting" as the travel portion was, where every day was a new adventure. But the funny part is that I love this part of the trip even more. I feel like a real Oxford student, and the campus is truly lovely. When I get a chance on a sunny day (which are few and far between here), I'm going to go on a photo walk, because the grounds and gardens here are so beautiful, so idyllic, that I had to pinch myself when I first arrived and realized I'd be studying here for the next few weeks.

Of course, that was almost four weeks ago. So what have I been doing since then? This...

The London Eye by night - this was our view where we stayed.

A trip to London the first weekend, where preparations for the Olympics (now only a week away) were in full swing! I don't remember very much about the '96 Olympics in Atlanta, but the craze and fervor here for the Games is pretty infectious! They have a huge Olympic countdown clock in Trafalgar Square.

The Tower Bridge adorned for the Olympic Games

Of course, we saw the obligatory sights in London, from Big Ben to Buckingham Palace to the Parliament to Westminster Abbey to the London Eye. And much of this was done in the rain, because England is apparently in the midst of one of the wettest summers on record. (I still can't decide whether the 50-60 degree temperatures and rain are worse than the scorching heat back home.)

 Big Ben (pardon the raindrops)

 

 The London Eye by daylight (sort of) (oh hey, Big Ben!)

But eventually it brightened up, and so did my view of London as a city. I really fell in love with the city, even though I was only there for two days. It helps that everyone speaks English, but it felt very much like New York City, only more sophisticated (probably because of the British accents).

In Trafalgar Square after the sun came out.

 

The Kensington Palace Gardens

On Saturday we went to a production of Phantom of the Opera. It was amazing! I had never seen the movie and didn't know very much about the story, so the first thirty minutes were a bit confusing, but after that it was incredible. It was such a fun experience, and I think our seats were some of the best I've ever had at a production like this.

Phantom of the Opera stage before the first act started.

But without a doubt the two highlights of the short trip were exploring the food markets at Harrod's and making the pilgrimage to King's Cross to see Platform 9 3/4.

The former was sensory overload. We didn't spend too long at Harrod's, but once I found the food markets on the ground floor I had no desire to wander elsewhere. I was in foodie heaven - from the pastries to the breads to the incredible marzipan displays (be still my heart!).

 

Gorgeous flower displays at Harrod's (top); marzipan madness, or my personal foodie heaven (middle); 

fancy schmancy pastries at the Harrod's patisserie (bottom)

Seeing Platform 9 3/4 was another nerdy highlight. There was actually a huge line of people waiting to take their picture when we got there, and it seemed to have formed organically (Harry Potter fans really are the best). But the line moved quickly and before I knew it I was off to Hogwarts, although I couldn't stay for long.

Off to Hogwarts, brb!

The great part about being in Oxford is that it's so close to London. The bus ride there is less than two hours, so it's an easy day or afternoon trip to make. I'm going to return next weekend for the opening ceremonies of the Olympics (did you know Danny Boyle is directing them?). Something tells me the city will be a bit crazier than it was a few weeks ago though.

Next up: Edinburgh, Oxford explorations, and Barcelona (where I'm leaving for tonight!).

Things I Did in Paris (in no particular order)

1. Went to three different art museums: Musee d'Orsay, the Louvre, and the Centre Pompidou. My favorite was probably Musee d'Orsay because I love 18th and 19th century art, but they were all pretty cool. We didn't really spend much time in any of the museums, probably because you could spend forever exploring them.  The Louvre was so crowded, but I did get to see the Mona Lisa. My thoughts? It's cool to say you've seen it in person, but there's just so many people trying to look at it, and it's really really small. So basically you have a hundred or so people in a restricted space taking pictures of a 600 square inch portrait. But you can't really go to the Louvre and not see it.

2. Visited the Palace Versailles. I really liked Versailles, but it was incredibly crowded, too. The gardens were lovely, though, as was the Hall of Mirrors and seeing all the Marie Antoinette artifacts. I think I'll have to watch that movie when I return at the end of the summer.

3. Climbed the Eiffel Tower. We trekked up the 600 or so stairs to the top level (that's the highest you can walk up) and then took the lift to the very top. The views were incredible. It was a gorgeous day, and we finally made it to the top at about 7 in the evening (though it still seemed like the afternoon) and the rays of sun were streaming through the clouds. It's about as close to heaven as you can get. Also, the Eiffel Tower is huge in person. When you're right up against the iron lattices you really feel the magnitude of the tower.

About to walk up (top), at the first level (middle), at the very top (bottom)

4. Went to the Eiffel Tower at night. Twice. With bottles of wine. The first night we went it was just a small group of us. We took the metro and got to the tower right at midnight. "It's midnight in Paris!" I said to my friends, as the tower sparkled behind us. Truly incredible. We sat on the lawn, drank, talked, and listened to music before the next light show at 1 am. This one was all white lights, though, so the effect was really different. At that moment, I really fell in love with Paris.

Midnight in Paris

5. Studied for finals. On the night of the Summer Solstice (where there's a huge music festival in Paris) our entire group was basically forced to stay in to study for our exams the next night. I stayed in my room, wrote my art history paper, and memorized image IDs. I think everyone felt cheated that our exams were in Paris (and our midterms were in Florence, no less), which really prevented us from getting out and exploring Paris. The city is so big and sprawled out that it would have been impossible to see everything we wanted, but I certainly tried.

6. Went to the Opera Garnier and saw the gorgeous Chagall ceiling painting in the theater.

7. Went exploring on my own. After our exams on Friday I had basically the whole afternoon to myself. My friends were headed to the Pantheon for an extra credit assignment, and since I didn't need the extra credit, I decided to head to Sacre Coeur and Montmartre. Luckily our hotel was a block away from a major train station and navigating the Paris metro is so much easier than a lot of the other cities we've visited. I climbed up the steps to Sacre Coeur and was rewarded with a gorgeous view of Paris. After heading down the steps I spent the next few hours wandering through Montmartre, window shopping, actually shopping, and enjoying a nice picnic lunch in the park while people watching. I had a bit more time left to kill afterward and decided to head to the Luxembourg Gardens. I wasn't sure what to expect but was amazed when I finally got there. They were beautiful. I'm so glad I took the time to see some more of the city, which is something I hadn't done much of in any of the other cities. There's something to be said for experiencing a city like Paris on your own. Still, I feel like I could spend another weekend there, just wandering around and exploring, which just goes to show how much there is to do in Paris.

Sacre Couer (top) and views of Montmartre (bottom)

8. Enjoyed some real Parisian pastries. Including a french apple tart (awesome), two mini caneles (my first time trying them; was not disappointed), pain aux raisins (not a pastry, but darn good nonetheless), and my absolute favorite, an almond tart. This almond tart was awesome. It was my special treat on the night I studied for exams, and I savored every bite. Goodness.

A mini canele in Montmartre 

9. Departed for Oxford, where I am now. I'll post more about Oxford soon, but to say that it's beautiful would be doing it a disservice. The campus is lovely - gorgeous gardens, centuries-old buildings, and really nice people. I can't wait for the next six weeks.

Belgium: Ghent, Bruges, and Brussels

The Atomium in Brussels

So. Belgium.

It was a long time getting there – we spent probably 24 total hours on the bus, traveling all the way through Italy, then spending the night in Switzerland, enjoying a leisurely lunch in Strasbourg, France, and then finally arriving in Ghent.

The main square in Bruges

After a few weeks of hot temperatures (especially in Italy), Ghent was a complete reversal. It was cold, rainy, and windy. I don’t think anyone in our group was prepared for the drastic changes, especially me. My decision to bring one jacket on this trip isn't looking very good, especially after arriving at Oxford yesterday (more on that soon).

A boat ride in Bruges (and lots of ducklings!)

The hotel we stayed at was in Ghent, which is the home of one of the Belgian universities and therefore one of the youngest cities in Belgium. Our hotel was in the main town square, directly across from St. Bavo Cathedral and a few blocks away from the main river and stretch of shops and restaurants.

 Typical "staircase" architecture seen throughout Belgium

Our first day in Belgium we took a day trip to Bruges, about a 45 minute drive. Picture a small Belgian village and you’ll have a good idea of what Bruges was like. It was touristy for sure, but, unlike Venice, the people were so much nicer, the canals were beautiful (not smelly), and the food was delicious. We took a boat tour through the canals, wandered through the streets, and enjoyed our relaxing afternoon free. I tried a Belgian liege wafel (made with a thicker yeast dough) and it was one of the tastiest treats I’ve ever had. Belgium in general is a sweets-lover’s paradise. On seemingly every corner there’s either a wafel stand, chocolate shop, or gelato vendor. I was pretty overwhelmed just looking at some of the displays. It’s safe to say I was in a foodie heaven.

Chocolate and sweets overload

The next day we took a(nother) day trip to Brussels, which is much more of a modern city than Bruges, which retains a lot more original, antiquated architecture. We visited a few museums there and then went to see the famous Manneken Pis statue. Our music professor then told us all that we should see the female version of the Manneken Pis. We meandered through the streets of Brussels and down a narrow alleyway. After seeing the statue, we realized we were in front of the Delirium Biergarten, a famous bar that sells the namesake Delirium beer, which is brewed very close to Brussels. The next thing we knew, almost our entire group was in the bar, where our professors and group leaders left us for two hours.

Manneken Pis: only in Brussels

I’m not sure what they expected, especially considering this place sells 2-liter portions of all types of beer, but I’ll just say that the walk back to the bus and ensuing bus ride back to Ghent were incredibly interesting. For the record, I was completely sober—I tried the blonde Delirium brew and was not that enamored. They were selling a “cactus” beer (it was green), though, that tasted delicious and that I wished I’d ordered.

The aftermath of 50 college students in a bar in Belgium.

We wrapped up our stay in Belgium by spending the day in Ghent and seeing the St. Bavo Cathedral, which was really beautiful and houses an altarpiece by the famed artists Hubert and Jan van Eyck.

Overall, I really enjoyed our time in Belgium. The people were some of the most friendly I’ve met in Europe so far, and the scenery is really beautiful. But I’d be lying if I said that I wasn’t waiting for Paris the entire time.

More on the City of Lights soon. It was really lovely.

"When in Rome, Y'all"

The Spanish Steps 

It seems hard to imagine that in just eight days we’ll be arriving in Oxford after four weeks of travel, but it’s true. The past two days have been a whirlwind of bus travel, driving through Italy (all the way from Rome), then Switzerland (where we stayed a night in quaint Lucerne), France (where we stopped for lunch in Strasbourg), Luxembourg (where we took a twenty minute bathroom and snack break), and now here we are in Belgium.

This stretch of Europe is markedly different from the Italy we experienced for the past ten days. Yesterday we drove through the Swiss Alps and I’m sure I’ve never seen anything so foreign yet so beautiful. It was remarkable. And the weather here is obviously different, too. Gone are the 85+ degree days and unrelenting, dry heat. France and Belgium (so far, at least) have been grey and overcast, but to tell the truth it’s actually a nice relief.

Of course I’m getting ahead of myself because I’ve yet to talk about the final leg of our Italian journey in Rome. It’s really no wonder Rome is called the Eternal City because I feel like I could live there forever and still uncover new and exciting things about it (what is it about Italy that seems this way?). I wasn’t sure that any city could surpass my experience in Florence, but Rome came pretty close. It’s far more active and tourist-filled, but I loved it almost as much. There’s so much to do and see!

Our first day we explored ancient Rome, from Capitoline Hill to the ancient ruins to the Colosseum. I’m really fascinated by these antiquated structures. The Colosseum was really special—it’s absolutely massive!

The second day we took a three-hour tour of the Vatican. And when I say three hours, I mean three hours. Our tour guide made sure every precious minute was spent detailing some facet of the Roman Catholic Church’s headquarters. I was looking forward to the Vatican tour, and I really enjoyed it, but in ways I didn’t expect. We toured the Vatican Museums, and there is so much interesting art there. The Raphael rooms (where his masterpiece School of Athens is displayed) and the Sistine Chapel were my favorite. I was really in awe of Michelangelo’s ceiling paintings—I became emotional just looking at “The Creation of Adam.” The only downside is how many people there are there. It’s obviously worse in the summer months, but I wasn’t expecting the swarms upon swarms of bodies. I even saw one girl faint in the Sistine Chapel (I’m guessing from the sheer amount of people in the room, but then again you never know).

 Raphael's "The School of Athens"

On our last day in Rome we saw the rest of the customary Roman sights. They may be touristy, but they became that way for a reason. The Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, Fountain of the Four Rivers, and the Pantheon are all incredible and beautiful.

 The Trevi Fountain: throw three coins in and you'll return to Rome!

I really can’t get over just how much there is to do in Rome. No one was more surprised than I was at how much I enjoyed our visit to the Villa Borghese, a museum of primarily sculptures that houses some phenomenal sculptures by Gian Lorenzo Bernini. To see them up close and notice the details was incredible. If this trip has taught me anything about art it’s to really appreciate it and the craft and skill that goes into making these masterpieces.

 At the Pantheon: the open dome projects a large circle of light that moves quickly around the interior

On our last night in Rome, we all wanted to enjoy a really good Italian meal. Luckily, our hotel was (again) in a residential area and I had spotted a homey-looking restaurant literally right around the corner. Seven of us girls ventured for a late dinner and ended up staying for over two hours. We talked and lingered, and were graciously served by the hostess, whose family owns the small, rustic restaurant. I ordered a delicious pasta dish: large shells with roasted cherry tomatoes and eggplant, buffalo mozzarella (but with a texture more akin to fresh ricotta), and basil. For dessert, I opted for the “apple pie,” although it was more like a crostata, with spiced roasted apples and raisins atop a crisp pastry crust. It was a heavenly meal, easily the best I’ve enjoyed on this trip, both for the food and the company.

We departed Italy yesterday morning, and, like I said before, have been mostly confined to the bus. I’ve been doing lots of Sudoku and napping, with the occasional movie or studying thrown in during the long lulls.

We are in Belgium the next few days, where we’ll take day trips to Brussels and Brugges via Ghent, where our hotel is. I can’t say I’m one for Belgian beer, but I’d go for some moules frites and wafels any day!

P.S. The title of this post is something I actually said. I've said "y'all" more times on this trip than I have in my entire life. Don't ask me to explain.

[Update: I wrote this on the bus Friday. After two days in Belgium I can confirm that 1. it's cold here, 2. I'm definitely not one for Belgian beer, 3. I definitely am one for wafels. Holy yum.]